Scrapbook AdventuresBackpacking The Porcupine Mountains - Two Points of View
Written by Zachary and Kip Ladage / Photography by Kip Ladage
Page 2
On the trail - Day 2
Zach and I slept well most of the night. I woke early to an unusually noisy Lake Superior. While peering out of the tent I realized the wind blown waves were splashing uncomfortably close--within a couple of feet of our camp. Bear bags hung the night before over terra firma were now safely dangling over Lake Superior. I chose not to wake the guys since the lake didn't seem to be getting any closer to our tents.
Following breakfast we broke camp to begin the journey up the Big Carp Trail. Unfortunately, as we put our packs on, the rain began. What would have been a drier, less buggy hike, became a soggy, muddy trek as we sloshed our way up the slippery trail. Temperatures were warm and we soon learned that our ponchos kept in as much sweat as the rain they kept out.
After hiking a couple of miles we realized our rain ponchos were unnecessary; the trail required us to wade the Big Carp River. Everyone ended up wet. Steady rain continued for nearly 5 hours. To our surprise though, the troops weren't complaining. I think they all understood the futility of complaining and chose instead to direct their energy toward hiking. I continued to fear that nobody would backpack again if conditions did't improve soon.
Determined to continue, we wound our way through the forest until we came across one of three Adirondack Shelters built in the park. At the same time, as if on cue, the sun broke through and the rain stopped. It didn't take long before the boys decided to end the day's hike and relax at the shelter.
Ropes were strung through the trees so equipment and apparel could be dried out. Throughout the afternoon the sun dried our gear and soothed discouraged spirits. We adults thought ideal conditions existed and wanted to continue hiking, but we had to remember, this was the boy's trip and it was their decision to stop for the day.
Late in the afternoon we realized we had a dilemma: how will we sandwich 11 people in an Adirondack Shelter designed for four? Double bunking and sleeping on the floor soon solved the problem. Just as we began preparing our evening meal, the rain returned again. All 11 of us settled page in early for the night listening to Matt and Luke lead us in silly camp songs.
Sometime around 8:30 P.M. we had unexpected guests at the hut. From the dark, rainy forest came Chris and Barb (last names unknown); soggy, fellow backpackers from the Milwaukee area. They desperately asked if there was any room in the shelter for the two of them. Being good scouts, we packed even closer together to accommodate our guests. Now we had 12 men and 1 woman in a hut built for 4! Though crowded, we all slept well and dry, even with the non-stop snoring from a father/son duo on the far side of the shelter.
Day Two (Zach):
On day two it rained . . . no, it poured! Again the pace was too fast for
some scouts, including me. The trail led us to the Big Carp River. We had to cross the river to continue on the trail. I was nervous about the crossing. I didn't want to fall in and I didn't want to get my feet wet since my boots had kept them dry so far. We knew an Adirondack cabin was 4 or 5 miles from the river, which seemed to take forever to cover. The other scouts who had gone ahead had hung up a clothes line for our soaked clothes. We ended up staying the night at the cabin. I was relieved that we were staying at the cabin. We went to bed at about 7 o'clock. Around 9 P.M., a couple named Chris and Barb walked up in the rain. We already had 11 people in a four bunk cabin, but we made extra room so we could share the cabin with them for the night. After day 1 and 2, I don't care if I ever go backpacking again.
Still on the trail - Day 3
Our third day began dry and pleasant. Sunbeams shining through the forest canopy seemed to beckon us onto the trail for one more day; a day that promised to be extraordinary.
Following group pictures and exchanging of pleasantries with our new friends, we parted company and hit the trail. Our route was modified so we hiked less, but on a higher and hopefully drier trail.
What a great decision! It wasn't long before the trail made a marked change--up! Our thighs pulled as we climbed higher and higher through old-growth forest of hemlock, pine, and maple trees. Former mining sites, slowly being reclaimed by nature, were still visible. The group's excitement was evident as trail conditions continued to improve.
Suddenly the quiet stillness of the
vast timber was broken by cheers as our group reached the ridge of the Big Carp Trail. The view was simply stunning! Our vantage point provided us sweeping vistas of the forest below and the beautiful Lake of the Clouds.
Without hesitation, the packs, boots, and socks came off. Everyone basked in the warmth of the afternoon sun and the beauty of the Porkies. Forgotten were thoughts of mud, bugs, and rain. Now turkey vultures gliding on warm air thermals, distant treetops, and the breeze blowing up from the valley entertained us. We were experiencing backpacking at its finest and everyone of us knew it!
After soaking in the natural splendor of the Porkies for nearly an hour and a half, we decided we had to continue hiking. According to our maps we weren't far from the trailhead and the successful completion of our backpacking adventure.
Numerous scenic overlooks were encountered. We hiked, we stopped, hiked, and stopped . . . enjoying each and every view. Only a short distance was covered before we noticed the trail had widened. Clean, fresh, energetic day hikers were encountered with increasing frequency. Our scouts knew the trailhead was very near. Even with packs on some of the boys ran down the trail.
After such a great day of hiking, it was somewhat disappointing to see our
vehicles again. For many of us it meant the High Adventure had been completed.
After gathering at the cars, we gave our scouts two options. Four hikers chose to spend an additional day in the back country while the remaining seven of us returned to Presque Isle Campground.
Back at Presque Isle Campground, our final night in the Porkies was a simple, relaxing evening. Well deserved (and needed) hot showers were first on the agenda followed by one last Lake Superior sunset vigil. The scouts skipped stones across the lake while I watched a merganser with 11 chicks swim nearby.
Day Three (Zach):
We only had 4 miles left on day 3 of our shortened backpacking trip. Some of the slower scouts were allowed to set the pace. I felt great and walking slower was a change for the better. We had a picture perfect day for hiking. About 2 hours into our hike we climbed up to an overlook. The view was great. We could see Lake Superior on one side of the ridge and Lake of the Clouds on the other side. After hiking at a slower pace, with great weather, I've decided I want to go backpacking again.
Our adventure ends . . .
During the night the weather again took the upper hand. Rain and cold temperatures greeted us on our final morning in the Porkies. Having achieved our goals, our options were limited to heading home now, or later in the day.
Just as we were loading the last packs in the vehicles, a car drove into the campground with its horn honking. It was Barb and Chris, our friends from the Adirondack Shelter returning from the trail. They had just become engaged and wanted to share the news with us! Unfortunately we never did learn their last names.
Zach's final thoughts:
Choosing the proper pack and equipment was almost as much fun as the hike. During training I enjoyed the quiet hikes around Sweet Marsh. After the second or third time around though, I was ready for a change of scenery. Bad weather conditions make backpacking miserable, but sunny days are great! Even with the mud and bugs, I think the scouts' attitudes had actually improved by the end of our trip. We all started joking about Glenn getting scared by a ruffed grouse, and all the bugs and mud, and how funny we looked with rain ponchos on. I don't think any scout would turn you down if you asked them to backpack again. I think it's safe to say, everyone enjoyed themselves.
Conclusion
Needless to say, our journey lived up to its name. Although our group had camped together many times before the trip, living out of a backpack proved to be entirely different. We learned the value of potable water, recognized the importance of bear bags, and shared the enjoyment of camaraderie, even when conditions were less than ideal.
The fact that the Porkies were experiencing their wettest year in two decades created a genuine challenge for our scouts. Still, the opportunity to experience the aura of true wilderness made the adventure worthwhile.
(Note: Exactly one month later, Zach and I made a second trip to the Porkies. My wife and daughter accompanied us on that excursion. The weather was still rainy, and we still had bugs--stable flies. The four of us backpacked along the Escarpment Trail and had a great time! We've learned that the key to a great experience is in your frame of mind!)
For more information on backpacking the Porcupine Mountain Wilderness State Park, click here.
Click here to view scenic images of the Porcupine Mountains.Click here to link to Ladage Photography and Destinations.
