Scrapbook Adventures

Backpacking The Porcupine Mountains - Two Points of View

Written by Zachary and Kip Ladage / Photography by Kip Ladage

(This adventure review was first published in Midwest Streams and Trails 1/97)

In the beginning the idea seemed innocent enough. Take 7 Boy Scouts, with 4 adult leaders, to a remote area. Let them ramble the wilderness, living out of backpacks, for nearly a week. We've all heard about the skills scouts possess, haven't we? How complicated can a camping trip be? 

Unfortunately, not everything is as simple as it seems. It didn't take long before we found out there is a distinct difference between weekend campouts and a backpacking adventure. 

This expedition was arranged to be a once-in-a-lifetime "High Adventure" trip for the older boys in our Boy Scout troop. To qualify as a High Adventure trip, the boys were responsible for planning each and every detail of the journey. The four adults on the trip would provide only leadership as needed, and transportation. 

The Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park, affectionately known as the Porkies, was our destination. Located in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, the Porkies are a rugged, 60,000 acre wilderness area along 23 miles of Lake Superior shoreline. 

Although both Darrin (Scoutmaster) and I had hiked the Porkies, none of the members of our group had ever been on a "real" backpacking trip before. Except for extended "car-camping" trips, our experience was limited to weekend outings. We had no idea how thoroughly our outdoor skills were about to be challenged. 

In an effort to share the adventure with others, I thought it might be worthwhile to jot down a few highlights during the trip in a journal. I also asked my son Zach to keep a journal of his own so others could experience the adventure through both an adult's point of view and through the eyes of a 12-year old boy. Our adventure went something like this.... 
 
 

Preparations

Planning began late in February; July 3rd was chosen as our departure date. With nearly five months to prepare, we thought we had plenty of time for conditioning and planning. Encouragement was offered to the troop to begin strength training and to obtain the needed equipment. 
 
 

Countdown to High Adventure (8 weeks)

Glenn (adult leader) and I are excited, yet concerned. We've heard reports that only a couple of the boys are conditioning with their packs. Josh has been observed doing his paper route wearing a backpack, and two of the boys did a short day-hike with overloaded packs on a troop campout. We aren't aware of anybody else doing any conditioning. However, the boys are doing an excellent job of obtaining maps, planning menus, and determining what final gear needs to be purchased. Glenn and I advise the boys that they will be required to complete a pre-adventure, 7-8 mile hike with loaded packs a week before the trip. If a scout fails the hike, that scout won't be going to Michigan! 
 
 

4-weeks

Final plans are made for each day of the trip. Our troop has charted a course of 9-11 miles per day. Glenn suggests a short, "option-out" trail, while Darrin proposes shorter daily hikes. We adults still are not seeing any regular conditioning by several of the scouts, except for our weekly "empty-pack" hikes. Again the boys are reminded of the upcoming physical test to pass before embarking on the adventure. 
 
 
 
 

1 week

Our 7-8 mile challenge test went well, albeit a little slower than anticipated, but completed by all 7 boys. With only a few days left, one scout still doesn't have his own pack or hiking boots yet. Everyone else appears to be prepared except for Glenn. He fell off a ladder earlier in the week hurting a knee. His status is now unclear. 
 
 

The High Adventure

We began the 9 hour drive after work July 3rd. Thanks to a favor owed to a local pastor, we were allowed to sleep at a church 3 hours away. Since we didn't have tents to pack away, our caravan got an early start down the highway on July 4th. 

Camp was made shortly after arriving at Presque Isle Campground in the Porkies. We then hiked the nearby West River Trail. As Darrin and I had promised, the views of the three waterfalls were splendid. The State of Michigan is to be commended for the boardwalk trail that allows safe, close access to the natural beauty of the Presque Isle River. Our first day in the park ended as we watched the sun go down over Lake Superior. 
 
 

Troop 32 hits the trail

After acquiring our back country permits and receiving the latest bear activity update, our next destination was the Lake Superior trailhead. According to our itinerary, 11 miles was our goal for the day. Weather conditions couldn't have been better. The trail started out rough, but in excellent condition. Numerous rocky outcroppings afforded us panoramic views of Lake Superior. 

We soon found out what topography lines on our maps indicated. Conditions quickly deteriorated as the trail descended toward Lake Superior. Nothing had prepared us for the 7-8 miles of mud we were about to encounter. An occasional wet segment of trail was expected, but ankle deep mud tends to be discouraging. 

To make matters worse, with the mud came the bugs. Blackflies and no-see-ums attacked in droves. Insect repellent seemed to have little impact on the nasty critters. Compounding things was Glenn's knee. He considered heading back, although most of the group wasn't comfortable with the idea. Nobody wanted to see him suffer, but what if something happened to him while hiking back to Presque Isle Campground? 

After a long, strenuous hike, we stopped for a mid-afternoon food break along Lake Superior. During our first meal on the trail we encountered our only equipment breakdown. Our brand-new, self-cleaning stove was suffering from a clogged jet on its third use. Fortunately I had packed my stove repair kit and was able to remove debris from the fuel line. 

Following the much needed rest our group of 11 continued down Lake Superior Trail toward the mouth of the Big Carp River. Yes, the mud and bugs followed. I had a fear that Darrin and I would be the only repeat backpackers if the entire journey was like that. 

Finally, after hours of misery, we reached our destination. But in accordance with park regulations, we continued another 1/4 mile down the trail, away from a pair of cabins built page at the mouth of the Big Carp River. Camp was made along the shore of Lake Superior. 

Glenn and his son Derek received the honors for the most bear-resistant set-up. Inside their tent were 2 walking sticks, rocks, and whistles; everything needed to scare away a visiting bear. I hadn't realized Zach was concerned about bears too, until I found 1 lone rock at the head of my sleeping bag. I assume it was my responsibility to thump any bruin visiting our tent. 

We all practiced proper camp etiquette with food, smelly stuff, and sanitation to reduce black bear encounter possibilities. 
 
 

Day One (Zach): 

Walking at a grueling pace on a muddy trail, Dad and I were far behind most of the other scouts. We stayed on the Lake Superior Trail, finally stopping for lunch at 2:30! It was late afternoon when the idea of a shorter hike was first mentioned. I was already exhausted, but I knew we had to continue on. We all knew we had some miles to cover but none of us expected it to be 5 1/2 miles. The last mile or two were the hardest, with the combination of bugs and the endless ankle-deep mud. We were tiring by the step. I don't know if I'll ever go backpacking again.
 
 

Click here to continue with page 2. 
 
 

For more information on backpacking the Porcupine Mountain Wilderness State Park, click here.

Click here to link to Ladage Photography and Destinations.