Scrapbook Adventures

Backpacking Across Isle Royale on the Feldtmann Loop Trail - 8/02

Text and photos by Kip Ladage

After much too long of a period of time without a good hike, my son (Zach) and I finally coordinated our schedules long enough to plan an outing together.  What made this hike special were the conditions preceding its inception.  For years I have told both of my kids that during the summer following their graduation from high school, each child would be offered a quiet, dad/child hike.  For the longest time Zach didn’t seem interested in such an adventure.  Then, one afternoon Zach came home from work and said “Well Dad, I took time off work.  Are we going somewhere?”  Imagine my surprise!  I immediately pulled out my Isle Royale map so we could plan a route.  Our adventure would be a short hike on the Feldtmann Lake loop on the western region of Isle Royale.  Interestingly, although Zach agreed on a hike, he chose not to condition for the days of walking.  Instead, he felt his grass cutting jobs (seven of them), cross-country running, and the track season would suffice.  I am happy to report that Zach easily outwalked me on the trail.  He had absolutely no problems on the trek.

As we’ve done so many other times, we waited too long before securing a room near Grand Portage, Minnesota for the night before our departure.  With the Canadian border so close, we simply added a few more miles to our driving and stayed in Thunder Bay (Best Western Crossroads Motor Inn).  We not only had a great room, but the exchange rate was also a treat. 

 Officially, our hike began with the short (2 – 2 ½ hour) voyage on the Wenonah.  Because we were entering and departing Isle Royale at Windigo, the Wenonah was an economical travel option.  Monica, the crew of the Wenonah, and the weather, provided a smooth trip to the island called Isle Royale.  Of all the trip details, the boat ride caused Zach the most concern.  He didn’t want to get motion sickness.  Zach ended up sleeping through a large part of the float, but not all of it.  After a brief viewing of the shipwreck America, we soon reached the dock at Windigo.

Following the mandatory National Park Service “rules” presentation, the sizeable group of backpackers were excused to hike their trails.  Zach and I took a couple of pictures at the Windigo sign and then prepared to hike to Feldtmann Lake.  To my surprise, I overheard somebody mention the name “Jer Bear.”  I looked around and found the source of the name – a small group of hikers I had not previously met.  I couldn’t leave the group without learning the details of “Jer Bear.” 

As the group gathered to begin their hike, I asked if the “Jer Bear” I heard had anything to do with the message board on “thebackpacker.com.”  Sure enough, the people we met: Jer Bear, Crazy Mike Backpacks, Two-Scoops, Mike, and Kim were the same folks I communicate with via the message board.  We snapped a few more photos and went our separate ways down the trails. 

The initial segments of the Feldtmann trail closely followed the shoreline of Lake Superior.  Unfortunately, because we were hiking during the peak of the foliage season, our views of the bay were limited to occasional breaks in the trailside vegetation.  The trail itself was easy to follow, relatively smooth, and certainly meandering.  From what I could tell of Zach’s impression of the hiking, he wasn’t overly excited or terribly disappointed.  He seemed to just be satisfied.  For me, it took only about ¼ mile to escape the bonds of my day-to-day responsibilities.  I wasn’t thinking of work, bills to pay, or anything else…I was just enjoying another visit to Isle Royale.  For those who haven’t experienced the island, that is the magic of Isle Royale!

Perfect weather allowed us to quickly cover the miles between Windigo and Feldtmann Lake.  Much to my surprise, the trail offered a pleasant mix of ridge tops with extensive views and wooded trails.  Most of my preferred hiking habitat was on the upper stretches, near Windigo.  As we neared Feldtmann Lake, the trail made a noticeable transition to more (and much thicker) vegetation.  In fact, there were many segments of tall (mid-chest) grass and wild plants.  I much preferred the more exposed trail habitat found near Windigo or on the Greenstone and Minong Ridges.

Even as the trail miles were covered quickly, Zach and I were anxious to reach Feldtmann Lake.  With the drive from Thunder Bay, the boat ride, and the hiking, we were certainly tired and ready to setup our camp for the night.  Both of us were pleasantly surprised to have our choice of campsites near the shore of Feldtmann Lake.  Only one of the sites was occupied by a fine group of hikers we met later in the day.

Our campsite neighbors were Doug, his soon-to-be 14-year-old son Andrew, and Doug’s brother Derrick.  Their group was following the same route as Zach and me, except they started a day earlier and included a trek on the Hugginnin Cove loop.  This was Andrew’s first backpacking trip and one of many for Doug and Derrick. In fact, we learned that Derrick was a thru-hiker on the Appalachian Trail.  For me, it was most humbling to meet somebody who has successfully hiked from Maine to Georgia with a pack on their back.

Within seconds of choosing our site, both sweaty packs hit the ground, the hiking boots were off, and sandals were on.  Part One of our hike was completed!

Before Zach had too much time to get relaxed, we decided to set up our camp and replenish our water supply.  Having popped the tent up many previous times meant we had camp created within a minute or two.  Zach offered to filter water; I dug the stove out of my pack so we could eat an early supper.

Over the years I’ve tried a number of different meals…anything from freeze-dried (expensive and sodium-rich) to Easy Mac (OK, but much better when microwaved according to instructions), Ramen Noodles (they don’t fill me up) to Rice-A-Roni (nearly perfect!).  On this outing we decided to find out how Asian Delight side dishes worked and tasted.  Since I hate to do dishes, I simply added boiling water to the noodle and spice pouch.  I let the mix set according to the instructions and ten minutes later I had an awful soup.  It was clear my wife and I hadn’t raised a dummy…Zach quickly changed his menu to Ramen Noodles.  He ended the night abdominally satisfied while I really needed a pizza.

Our evening at Feldtmann Lake couldn’t have been more relaxing.  A few photos were shot, water was pumped for the next day, and an enjoyable conversation was shared with Derrick and Doug.  Our first day ended quietly, except for the calling of loons.    For those wondering about wildlife observed… Moose: 1   Wolves: 0. 

Day Two began very early with a distinct threat of rain.  With virtually no discussion, our plan was to eat quickly and hit the trail toward Siskiwit Bay.  With luck, we hoped to finish our hiking before the clouds dumped on us.  Doug, Andrew, and Derrick had the same idea and were on the trail even sooner than we were.

According to the topo map, the hike from Feldtmann Lake to Siskiwit Bay included a sizeable stretch of hiking on Coyote Ridge.  Just as the map indicated, we soon began the short climb to the ridge top.  To our surprise, there on the ridge overlooking Feldtmann Lake were Andrew, Doug, and Derrick.  They were watching moose feeding in the shallow areas of Feldtmann Lake.  By the time we looked over the lake, only two moose were still visible.  Even from a distance, we found moose watching to be fascinating.

Only a short distance beyond the moose-watching overlook and Doug, Derrick, and Andrew, the rain began falling.  We weren’t suffering from a deluge, just the type of rain you know will last a while.  Air temperatures were warm enough that the rain actually felt good, at least until our feet were soaked.  From that point on, blisters developed in several spots on both of our feet.

At nearly the halfway point on Coyote Ridge we had our closest encounter with a moose.  Zach was leading the way and thought he heard an unusual noise.  He paused to scan the forest, but saw nothing.  He attributed the noise to rain falling off the trees.  When I reached the same point, I looked around and noticed, about 30 yards away, a bull moose feeding.  He clearly heard us and lifted his head to watch us as we passed through his “dinner zone.”  The close presence of the moose was unnerving for Zach, but he survived the lucky interaction with the wildlife that calls Isle Royale home.

Coyote Ridge extends for a good portion of the distance between Feldtmann Lake and Siskiwit Bay.  Like many trails on Isle Royale, sometimes you are on the tope of the ridge and sometimes the trail only skirts the ridge.  We were certain there were plenty of photogenic views from the ridge, but with rain, gray skies, and clouds, the camera equipment was moved to the waterproof security of my pack.  I was disappointed that I wouldn’t be shooting more photos, but my photo gear is not waterproof.  Perhaps I’ll see similar landscape photo opportunities on a future visit.

After leaving the exposed Coyote Ridge, we entered more tall grass trail.  We were wet and found it difficult to appreciate that part of the hike.  Our disappointment was short-lived as we were soon treated to fog and noticeably cooler temperatures as we approached Siskiwit Bay.  About the same time we entered the thick fog, we also began our hike through one of the few non-wilderness areas on the island.  Visually, that section of the trail was non-stimulating.  However, after learning the history of Siskiwit Bay, I’ve come to appreciate what once existed and the efforts required to develop the bay.  I almost wish an old building or two remained standing, exposed to the elements, to serve as a reminder of days gone by.  After all, what would it matter since the area is non-wilderness anyway?

Siskiwit Bay offers visitors a choice of tent sites or a couple of shelters.  Zach and I, along with Doug, Andrew, and Derrick had agreed at Feldtmann Lake to use a shelter if one was available.  To our delight, there was a foursome preparing to leave a shelter so we staked our claim.

Moored to the dock at Siskiwit Bay was a very nice personal boat.  According to the owners, the water temperature was only 48°, which quickly ended any thoughts of swimming.  Shortly after our two groups gathered at Siskiwit Bay, the boating family left in a thick fog.  We hoped their navigation skills were well honed since visibility was virtually nil.

In less than an hour after assembling our gear in the shelter, a warm sun burned through the fog and quickly warmed our camp area.  Zach and I spent most of the afternoon relaxing on the dock and watching seagulls.  As we enjoyed the afternoon, we noticed a sizeable concentration of snakes in the bushes near the dock.  Two large garter snakes repeatedly sunned themselves in our presence. Interestingly, we also found two snakes Crazy Mike from “thebackpacker.com” group identified as black rat snakes.  I've tried to confirm that identity since the lateral line suggests some form of garter snake.  So far, no luck! Add to those snakes a few northern red-belly snakes we located and you can understand our amazement.  There really were quite a few snakes assembled in one small area.

Lunch and supper were uneventful, as was the sunset, until the final moments before the glow nearly dropped below the horizon.  For just a minute or two, the sky lit up in a splendid blend of pinks and purples with randomly scattered clouds. Enhancing the scene was a cow and calf moose that moved along the Siskiwit Bay shoreline for a minute or two. 

All five of us finally settled in to soft-spoken conversation and seagull squawks.  Wildlife Count for the Day…Moose: 6  Wolves: 0 

Daybreak on our final day on Isle Royale began very early and with a big surprise.  Since my normal workday begins at 4:45 a.m., I routinely wake quite early.  Zach though, can easily sleep several more hours.  On our last day, Zach woke early and wanted to hit the trail.  No lounging, no sleeping another hour…just get up, pack, and hit the trail.  I agreed and off we went.

Our goal for the day was a brisk hike from Siskiwit Bay, through the Island Mine sites, and on to Windigo/Washington Creek via the Greenstone Ridge trail.  Except for the first few miles, the hike was a repeat for me.

From the beginning, the hiking included a few surprises.  First, I didn’t realize how long we would walk along the beach of Siskiwit Bay.  Second, I did not know that there was a bridge constructed over one small river/stream near the bay.  Third, a downed tree and a maze of moose trails confused us.  (Isle Royale trails seldom confuse me.)  Finally, I couldn’t believe how overgrown the habitat was.  Shoulder high grass was everywhere until we hiked closer to Island Mine.  Just as I had explained to Zach, the trail improved markedly near Island Mine.

The water conditions at Island Mine were as I remembered from earlier trips—a small pool filled by a slowly trickling stream.  We were both glad we had opted not to stop and camp at Island Mine.  As we left the Island Mine camp area en route to the intersection with the Greenstone Ridge, Zach learned (as I had) how sloppy and muddy a trail can get.  For some reason, each time I’ve hiked that section of trail, the path has been a mess.  My personal opinion is that the trail is getting wider and deteriorating more each year in that one segment.

The intersection with the Greenstone Ridge meant we had one final serious climb before we began the rapid descent to Washington Creek.  I thought Zach walked fast earlier on the trail, but during the downhill journey toward Windigo, he moved even faster.  Again, because of the season, visibility was often limited even though we were on the Greenstone Ridge.  I encouraged Zach to visit Isle Royale again during Spring or Fall when views extended much farther.

As we were originally planning our outing, the goal was to possibly include a “pack free” hike of the Hugginnin Cove loop if time allowed.  I have always wanted to introduce my wife to Isle Royale, but since she has trouble hiking with a load, I didn’t know how to do it.  Zach suggested that I save the Hugginnin Cove loop for a time when Kristy could also come up and stay at Washington Creek and day hike the cove.  I thought briefly about his idea and realized my hiking was almost finished.  Yes, I’d get to hike the Hugginnin Cove loop, but not until Kristy was able to participate, which might not be for a year or two.

As in previous hikes, the downward stretch to Washington Creek was easy and went fast.  We arrived at Windigo several hours before the boat departed back to Grand Portage.  Our early arrival allowed us plenty of time for much needed showers and socializing with other hikers.

Although this was my shortest stay on Isle Royale, it was certainly one of my most memorable, simply because of the time spent and conversations shared with Zach.  I’d be glad to do it again.  Fortunately, Zach expressed the same sentiments.

Final Wildlife Count for the Feldtmann Lake Loop hike…Moose: 9  Wolves 0

 
For more information on backpacking across Isle Royale, click here.

Click here to link to Ladage Photography and Destinations.