Scrapbook Adventures

Backpacking Across Isle Royale - 6/99

Text and photos  by Kip Ladage

Page 2

By the time we reached our designated camp area for the night, it was obvious our clan of hikers were alone for the evening. Instead of trampling vegetation while moving back and forth between sites, we chose to settle into one of the available group sites. We felt the adjustment to our itinerary was practical for the environment, for other hikers that may also be destined for our area, and for our group.

Interestingly, we noticed the two young guys from Wisconsin (the string-cheese carrying guys) seemed to be ever present. We didn't mind; acquaintances carrying string cheese (and we later learned of hot chocolate mix) are always worthy of our attention. The two orphans were also carrying fishing equipment. Within minutes of learning about the fishing tackle, Darrin and I were both trying our luck at angling.

Mealtime was always enjoyable with our hiking friends. There were so many different flavors of freeze-dried meals to try that nobody was ever hungry. Our only recurring problem was in the food and water intake department. We experienced the frequent dropping of bite-nipples on water bottles and entire water bottles being dropped into untreated water. After one mass water decontamination treatment (we had to boil everything), we found the best remedy for clumsy fingers was to ban the person attached to the fingers from pumping water. After that we had few water troubles.

Sunsets on Isle Royale always seem extra special. Maybe it is the lack of artificial light, or just the ambiance of the island. Whatever the cause, we all enjoyed watching the sun drop below the horizon. As hard as we tried, it was impossible to capture each subtle color present in our northern wilderness sunsets.

Our overnight at West Chickenbone Lake was unremarkable except for the low level, guttural moaning some of us were hearing. A quick investigation of the noise revealed it was originating from inside one of the tents. Did you know that the size of a person has no impact on the volume of the noises they make while sleeping?

Since we still had several days and nights left together, we realized we likely wouldn't be hearing the mournful call of the loons over the snoring coming from that one tent. When asked about the noises in the morning, some hikers stated that snoring was coming from more than one tent, however, I am unable to confirm that report.

By mid-week in our hike we were approaching the highest points on the spine: the Greenstone Ridge. Impressive vistas were visible in all directions. Colorful wildflowers decorated the trail as far as the eye could see. Some of us were lucky enough to observe a cow moose along the path. Following her a short distance away was her calf.

Trouble finally found a home within our corp of hikers. Myrna twisted an ankle and needed assistance with her load. Ken, the loving husband that he is, shouldered as much extra weight as he could bear so Myrna could continue. We wrapped her ankle for extra support which seemed to do the trick.

Mary experienced a stranger problem. Black-toe, the result of a toe-nail pounding the front of a boot, had nearly stopped Mary's hike. The only remedy in our situation was to open the fluid filled space between her toe-nail and the toe itself. Being the only EMT on the journey meant I was designated to perform the puncturing. We sterilized a needle, cleaned her toe, stuck it three or four times, and wrapped it. The process was repeated day and night. To our relief, Mary was able to complete the journey. (She did lose her toe-nails on both big toes after we returned to Iowa.)

Even with the two minor injuries, the hike continued to go exceptionally well. Mile after mile seemed to melt away under the comforting summer sunshine.

I was very surprised by the fact that we met very few other people on the trail, even though we were supposedly hiking during the peak months for visitors. I presume we were a week or two away from the actual peak crowds.

Wildlife experiences, excluding the glimpses of moose, were nonexistent. We did have pesky squirrels in the camp areas, but not much of anything else. I suspect if we had each been solo hiking we may have seen more wildlife.

As the week went on the ladies who had minimal hiking experiencing before the trip had become trustworthy hiking partners. Each person cared for their own needs while making sure the group continued forward. I was amazed how smooth the hike progressed.

Even though the trails on Isle Royale are very easy to follow, Darrin used the opportunity to teach the ladies map reading skills.

Other skills learned were how to properly pack a backpack, water treatment methods, and Leave No Trace principals.

Connie took a special interest to the Leave No Trace practices. I don't think she realized that during the week, the trash bag she carried behind her pack was growing faster than she was filling it. I can't speak for the others, but I certainly appreciated her carrying more than her share of the trash.

We all know how nature can play tricks on us. Surprise storms could have pelted us. Temperatures could have dropped. Drizzle could have chilled us to the bone. None of that happened. Instead, Mother Nature treated us in a pleasant manner. Several of us feasted on one of nature's finest treats - wild strawberries. Nothing can stop me faster than wild strawberries, except for raspberries. Although wild strawberries are very small, the taste of fresh fruit was a pleasant surprise.

I've noticed while hiking the Greenstone Ridge that the vegetation on Isle Royale is considerably different on opposing ends. Whether I hike the island during the summer or fall, the eastern end of the island continues to be my favorite. Maples seem more numerous near the western end; aspen and birch on the eastern side. Wildflowers however, know no boundaries. No matter where we looked, a wildflower of some sort could be found blooming. Springtime hikers are also treated to plenty of butterflies and moths. Swallowtail butterflies were common in the flower patches. Even a few luna moths were observed.
 
 

Insect problems on Isle Royale during our trip were less than I expected. I finally had to wear a mosquito net near Ishpeming Point. Ironically, while hiking through the most bug infested area, I also had a close brush with a moose. By the time I had finished shooting photos of the cow, I was covered with welts. Oh well, the experience was worth the trouble.
 
 

Our hike continued with absolutely no trouble, except for Myrna's ankle pain and Mary's sore toes. Everyone in the group seem to have determined a pace that worked best for them and hiked accordingly. Even on the longer days of hiking, everyone was still enjoyable by the end of the day. Some people even had enough energy to go for a swim in Lake Desor.
 
 

Our final full day on Isle Royale was spent hiking to the Island Mine campground. After setting up the many tents, several in the group hiked to an abandoned mine where mining relics from days gone by are still visible.

Island Mine was the only campground with a fire ring (which meant a campfire was permitted). A small fire kept us company as the sun set on our final night on the island.

Our last morning of the trip had one requirement. We needed to hike the 6.8 miles to Windigo in time to board the ferry.

Hiking conditions were a duplicate of the previous 6 days. Sunny skies, comfortable temperatures, and a steady downhill trek toward Windigo.

I don't think anyone was ready to leave Isle Royale, yet we all knew we had to. There is something about living a wilderness existence that cannot be duplicated in "normal" living.

As we approached Windigo, everyone who was looking around was able to see a bull moose feeding in the bay. He was a considerable distance away, but through zoom lenses we were able to clearly see him.

When we reached the port at Windigo, several things happened. The two orphan boys from Wisconsin (who stayed with us and even left the island with us) jumped off the dock into the chilly Lake Superior water. Everyone else took their first shower in a week. And we all enjoyed a "nature talk" presented by the resident ranger.

Our voyage back to Grand Portage was on a different ferry; this time we rode on the Winona, a passenger ferry. Even with warm sunny skies, the temperatures in the open water of Lake Superior created a chilly ride. Most of us snoozed during the 2 1/2 hour journey to Minnesota.

Following our week-long adventure, our group continues to stay in contact with each other. In fact, as this is written, we are in the process of planning our next group adventure -- possibly to the Porkies in the U.P. of Michigan.

I've had many thoughts about my participation in a group hike of this nature. I am certain it would be difficult, if not impossible, to duplicate the camaraderie our group established. Contrary to what many people thought, we had no attitude problems, whining, or complaining. Instead, I think we all experienced the satisfaction that comes from accomplishing personal goals while in the company of like-minded friends.

For more information on backpacking across Isle Royale, click here.

Click here to link to Ladage Photography and Destinations.