Scrapbook AdventuresBackpacking Across Isle Royale - 10/98
Text and photos by Kip LadageThis is another chapter in the continuing saga of my outdoor adventures, again with my good friend Darrin. This trek took us to Isle Royale National Park. Isle Royale is located 22 miles from the mainland, in Lake Superior. Access is limited to ferry or float plane. Isle Royale is a unique ecosystem; the island is isolated from outside influence. Island wildlife consists primarily of moose and wolves, with a mix of smaller birds and mammals, and of course countless insects.
Before we could begin our hike, we had to get to the island. Our group floated to Isle Royale via the Voyager II ferry. We left port at Grand Portage, Minnesota. The weather was chilly, a light drizzle was falling, and the wind was blowing at 10-15 miles per hour. Hardly optimum conditions for a hike! Joining us on this trek was a reporter from the Washington Post. He wanted to see what kind of people would visit the least visited national park in the lower 48 states, during the month of least visitation. We were told only 150 people set foot on Isle Royale during a typical October. We were so very lucky to be on Isle Royale during autumn! The island was so pretty. After nearly 8 hours on the ferry, which was a gut wrenching voyage, we finally reached Rock Harbor. A quick meeting with the Island Ranger allowed us to get our backcountry permits and begin our hike.
The beginning of our 5 day/50 mile hike started with a tromp through the Rock Harbor Campground. Since we needed to reach the Three-mile campground before dark, our only pause at the "developed" Rock Harbor Campground was to fill our water bottles one last time with water we did not need to treat.
Our itinerary took us on the Rock Harbor Trail for the first 7.3 miles of our hike. As you can see, the Rock Harbor Trail is a shoreline trail that follows every contour of Lake Superior.
Fortunately, the drizzle that had begun before we departed Grand Portage was finished by the time our hiking started in earnest. Amazingly, as we hiked along the shores of Lake Superior, the clouds broke open, allowing a great view of a beautiful setting sun. We had hoped this would be a great hike, but who expected such cooperation from Mother Nature.
We spent our first night on Isle Royale in one of the shelters located at the Three Mile Campground. Perhaps an explanation is in order regarding shelters on Isle Royale. At those points where boat access exists, the NPS has constructed three-sided shelters, similar to those on the Appalachian Trail, for hikers and boaters who come ashore.
Although the shelter provided a convenience factor, it also caused us to become chilled by morning. Temps dropped below freezing, enough to cause a slight amount of ice to develop on our water bottles. If we had stayed in the tent, the smaller, enclosed area would have allowed us to stay warm with our body heat. Oh well, we should have known better.
Morning greeted us with a stunning sunrise. Darrin and I both grabbed our cameras and tripods in a vain attempt to capture on celluloid the image before us. As is often the case, the resulting images pale in comparison to the memories we hold.
After our impromptu photo session, we both downed a couple of pop tarts, packed our gear, and began our first full day on Isle Royale. We stayed on the Rock Harbor trail another 4.6 miles. En route to the Daisy Farm Trail we passed through a couple of former mining areas. Open pits are clearly visible; the pits adjacent to the trail are fenced.
Shortly after passing through the former mining village of Daisy Farm, we left the shore of Lake Superior to follow the Daisy Farm Trail for 1.9 miles, to the intersection with the Greenstone Ridge Trail.
It didn't take long before Darrin and I were very surprised. The trail followed the rolling terrain, up one slight bump and down another. The surprise came in the low spots on the trail. Wherever the trail might possibly be muddy, the NPS has constructed an extensive boardwalk trail network.
A rustic boardwalk path prevents hikers from sinking to their knees in mud while also preserving the trail side vegetation. Unfortunately, the constant traffic of moose has resulted in serious trampling of what little vegetation remains along the trail.
We gladly followed the boardwalk path, knowing that any other option would have resulted in damp feet. With cool temperatures, even during the day, we appreciated the ability to keep our feet dry.
Nearly midway through our second day, we passed through an area I have since determined to be the prettiest locale on the entire island.
A wet, boggy area in the vicinity of Benson Creek captured my attention for nearly an hour. Nestled in its secluded setting, is a small pond, similar to the pond a beaver might create, that captures the reflections of the shoreline and reflects them back for all to see.
Decorating the shore of the pond are numerous flaking, white birch and aspen logs, many rotting away. Cattails blow gently in the wind. Enormous rocks gird one side of the pond and the island in the center of the pond. Small reptiles and amphibians slither and swim away as a tired backpacker pauses to relish the beauty of this wetland.
I felt lucky to have the opportunity to bask in the sunshine while surrounded by the beauty of the simple pond.
Finally, after more than an hour had passed, it was time to move on. Darrin was a substantial distance ahead of me by now.
Since we both hike at our own pace, we often enjoy a considerable amount of solitude. It is during those times, while hiking, that my priorities are arranged and rearranged. Maybe that is why I enjoy my backpacking treks as much as I do.Continued on page 2 . . . click here.
For more information on backpacking across Isle Royale, click here.
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