Scrapbook Adventures Backpacking Across the Great Smoky Mountains on the Appalachian Trail - 10/97   Written by Kip Ladage Page 2 Morning seems to come earlier than normal when you are backpacking. Being the morning person that I am, the earlier wake-up calls just allow me to hit the trails sooner. Our second day in the Smokies was no different.  We ate a light breakfast, packed our gear, swept out the shelter and hit the trail -- bound for the shelter at Peck's Corner.  As the Appalachian Trail passes through the Great Smoky Mountains, it follows the spine of the ridge down the park. Because of that, we were always blessed with "top of the mountain" views. We couldn't climb any closer to the clouds.  The weather was ideal and except for frequent photo stops, we covered the miles quickly. Our goal for the day was 12.6 miles, which seemed very attainable.  As we hiked the ridge, one foot in Tennessee, the other in North Carolina, we realized a disappointing detail we had overlooked in our planning. All of the waterfalls in the park are at the lower levels. Of course we had the option of dropping to the lower altitudes, but that would have required hours of additional time. We soon realized that any waterfall photos would come later, after we completed our hike.  As the day wore on and the mileage required to reach the shelter disappeared, the minor throbbing I had been feeling in my right knee began to increase. I took each step carefully to avoid a fall and utilized my walking stick for support. At less than 2 days into the journey, parts of my body were telling me I was a candidate for serious trouble real soon.  Even with my occasional hobbling, Darrin and I were enjoying the trip. Neither of us had spent much intimate time in an environment so lovely, so each new turn in the trail brought us another impressive view. Our cameras were enduring quite a work-out.  As I reminisce about the hike, it suprises me how deep our conversations often become when two friends are out enjoying the simple beauty of the earth. Even though we were being challenged with unexpectedly rough terrain and aching joints, compounded by our silly overpacking, we still enjoyed our endeavor together. Sure, we both missed our families, but the adventures are great. Hopefully, in time our families will be able to join us on our walks in the woods.  Shortly after the photo above was taken, Darrin and I were blessed with the this namesake view of the park. Of course we had to take pictures of the splendid scenery. It was very easy to see how the park earned its name.  Take a close look at the green vegetation. In time, you may not see the park dressed in a similar manner. A nasty little caterpillar with a voracious appetite is dining on certain trees species in the park. According to park staff, spraying the entire affected area with toxic chemicals is too expensive and probably would not be effective. So, if the caterpillars kill all of the trees now standing, the replacement trees will be a species chosen through natural succession that are resistant to the caterpillars.  After hours of hiking southward, Darrin and I finally reached the spur to the Peck's Corner shelter. For a short time we thought the exercise was playing tricks on our minds. From quite a distance away from the shelter, we could hear Eric Clapton tunes blaring through the trees. To our surprise, we found a group of college guys partying in the shelter, complete with a boom box and stack of CDs. Both Darrin and I enjoy Clapton's music, but not at that decibel and not in the Great Smoky Mountains. We also did not enjoy the brash attitudes that became more noticeable as the guys emptied their liquor bottles. Darrin and I declined invitations to join their party. Instead we hit the sleeping bags right after a freeze-dried meal was consumed.  Nature has a funny way of righting a wrong. When the partying guys woke up the next morning, they found that mice had tried to make nests in their toilet paper. Maybe the mice were just trying to escape the loud music. We also overheard some of the guys describing hang-over like symptoms. That will teach them!  Our destination for the third day was Icewater Spring Shelter. Another 9 miles of hiking would allow us to accomplish our goal.  This day of hiking was like no other. My right knee began to throb almost as soon as the hike began. Try as I might, I could not loosen the joint up. Needless to say, my day was quite uncomfortable. Darrin mentioned feeling a few bumps in his ankle, but I've always wondered if he said that to make me feel better (to make me believe the trail was rough on him too).  I learned during this most difficult of all hiking days that the tan lines on a topo-map can really be felt. You just need to adjust your sensitivity. The trail on this day lead to what may be the most impressive view in the northern half of the Smoky Mountains - Charlie's Bunyon. Cautious hikers approaching Charlie's Bunyon have the option of taking a side trail to avoid the precipitous drop-offs along the trail. However, don't do that if you can help it. Carefully hike the edge to enjoy the sweeping, scenic vista the bunyon offers.  Darrin soaked in the beauty of the Bunyon longer than I was able. My leg continued to cause trouble, even more trouble than earlier in the day. Its condition had deteriorated to the point where the joint was locked stiff in a straight leg position. Darrin loaned me his walking stick so I could sort of "crutch" my way along the trail.  Unfortunately, Darrin and I knew we had a decision to make. We still had several more days of hiking ahead of us if we were going to complete our goal. But was the reward worth the risk? What was the likelihood of permanent damage?  After much soul-searching, I advised Darrin that I would have to opt out of the adventure at the first opportunity, which was Newfound Gap. Sadly, the rest of our hike toward Icewater Spring was spent rethinking my decision and regretting the trouble I had caused.  When we reached the Icewater Spring Shelter, any doubt I may have had about cutting the trek short was gone. My knee had me more or less paralyzed in the shelter. While the rest of the group star-gazed at 6,000 feet, I was completely immobile in my sleeping bag.  A concerned older hiker proved to be my guardian angel for that day. He was carrying the biggest bottle of Aspirin I had ever seen. By popping them like candy, and with rest, my knee settled down enough that I was able to sleep.  The following morning, although I was very stiff, I was able to walk. We wasted no time eating and loading gear in our packs. My option out was within 3 miles and I was going to exercise that option.  Interestingly, the hike toward Newfound Gap went relatively smoothly. We knew hiking the entire length of the Smokies was not possible on this trip under the conditions, so we didn't worry about it anymore. Instead, we chose to turn a negative into a positive. By getting off the trail we would be able to shoot some photos of the rivers and waterfalls.  Our solution came with one pitfall - how would we get to Darrin's truck nearly 70 miles away? Easy, we hitch-hiked! Hitch-hiking when you are temporarily crippled, carrying a backpack, and stink from several days of intense sweating with no showers, is not an easy task. Darrin persevered until he convinced a retired Southern Baptist minister and his wife to haul us to Cherokee, Tennessee. From Cherokee, we hired a 16 year old girl to shuttle us to the Fontana Dam and Darrin's truck.  Before we even left the shop where Monica (our hired driver) worked, she crashed her boyfriend's car (and our ticket out) into her boss's car. Then, on the back roads of Tennessee, we were nearly killed while racing across a rail-road crossing. By the time we reached Darrin's truck, I was in more white knuckle pain induced by fear than I was from my leg. Darrin said he couldn't watch; he rode in the back seat with his eyes pinched closed.  Now that we have survived the adventure within an adventure, I want to thank Monica for getting us to the Fontana Dam. Next time you give me directions and I'll do the driving!  Our abrupt change in plans meant the final few days of our journey would be spent pursuing day trips that required little walking. We visited Clingman's Dome, Cades Cove, and numerous river accesses. Without my pack on, my leg discomfort improved to the tolerable level.  I visited my orthopedic surgeon shortly after returning to Iowa . His diagnosis agreed with mine . . . there was something wrong inside the knee joint. Surgery was performed to correct the problem. Following several months of recovery and reconditioning, I am again able to carry a pack and head for the hills (with a much lighter load!).  I frequently ask Darrin if he is ready to attempt the Smokies again. To date I have not heard him agree to the offer. Maybe someday he will. After all, I want to see Charlie's Bunyon again. I would also like to star gaze at Icewater Spring. Maybe next summer . . . .    Click here to e-mail questions and comments regarding Backpacking the Great Smoky Mountains.     Click here to link to Ladage Photography and Destinations.